No lubrication between tube and handlebar is needed, so grit build-up is almost nonexistent.
The tube is knurled for grip retention. The end cap is easily removable for use with stock barends or mirrors.
The tube is full street length and all street grips fit with no modifications. The machine work is impeccable on this Made in USA part. You can go from full closed to WFO without repositioning your hand. This setup is an ELS Exclusive! First, remove the fuel tank, or scoot it back and sit it on top of the front mounts. You will need to get access to the cable adjusters and slacken them all the way.
You can do this with a diagonal plier, hacksaw or a Dremel cutting wheel. Loosen the adjuster to full-slack. Next, remove the small Phillips head screw holding the cable routing guide into the front of the switch housing. Next, take your silver Sharpie and draw two lines on the edges as shown.
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These will be your sanding guides. Install the sandpaper drum on the Dremel as shown so the.
Sand the curved portion carefully until the line closest in the picture is gone and about the same width is exposed on the farther line. Deburr with an X-Acto or pocket knife. Again, debur with X-Acto or pocket knife.
Clean everything thoroughly, check for burrs, reassemble using light grease on cables through the guide slot and on both sides of the throttle cam where it rotates inside the switch housing. Also grease the cable ends and check for fraying.
When buttoned up, check throttle freeplay and adjust as needed. I used to always like zero freeplay, but I find lately that I have better control with just a smidgen of looseness. If you are not a decent wrench, find someone to help you thru the install.
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Again, any questions, please call. : FuelingMagenta Plaid Sale! The endcap is retained by an o-ring. Additional information Weight. Your cart is currently empty.